We eat closed cup, chestnut and button in spades, with the odd “mixed wild” thrown in. Not that there's anything wrong with that: they're cheap; they're great mates with garlic and olive oil on toast; they make superb keema (“mince”) when blitzed into tiny bits and paired with walnuts, sweet onions and spices; and they make ravishing ragouts. And, when the season allows, the odd chunky-stemmed porcini or dainty chanterelle might put in an appearance at the local market, and can be eaten raw in salads or flash-fried and served on creamy polenta: when you start with the best mushrooms, life becomes simple.
But the diamond in the rough, in my eyes, is the shiitake. Originally from China, and now grown in the UK, it's sold both fresh and dried. These mushrooms unleash an almighty meaty, smoky richness, and add a welcome chewy texture to boot. This makes them a great segue into meat-free eating, and a good ingredient for seasoned vegans to have up their sleeve when they fancy something meaty (that's not meat).
Today's recipe features fresh shiitake in a pho, a big, bold Vietnamese soup packed with rice noodles and topped with a glorious broth. It's balanced, flavoursome, light and a great introduction to the extended mushroom family.
Shiitake pho with crispy leeks
You can top a pho with a galaxy of good things, from crisp fried onions to all manner of herbs (fresh mint and coriander, say), but I've gone for leeks. This recipe rewards the cook who chops everything in advance. Serves four.
4 tbsp rapeseed oil, plus extra for frying the leeks
4 banana shallots, thinly sliced
2 inches ginger, peeled and grated
1 star anise
3 cloves
1 cinnamon stick
2 leeks, 1 finely sliced, the other cut in half and then into long, thin strips
2 bird's- eye chillies, very finely chopped
375g fresh shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 tbsp soy sauce
6 spring onions, very finely sliced
2 litres vegan vegetable stock
200g flat rice noodles
1 big handful fresh coriander, shredded
1 lime, quartered
In a large pot (three litres or bigger), heat the oil on a medium flame, then fry the shallots for five minutes. Stir in the ginger, star anise, cloves and cinnamon, and fry for five minutes more, until the mix starts to blacken and turn sticky (this will add great flavour). Add the sliced leek, chillies and mushrooms, and stir-fry for eight to 10 minutes, until softened and cooked down, then add the soy sauce, half the spring onions and the stock. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat to a whisper and leave to simmer. Check for seasoning: it may well need salt.
Meanwhile, fry the shredded leek. Pour enough oil into a frying pan to come 1cm up the sides, then heat on a medium flame until very hot. Fry the leek in batches, until crisp and golden, then use a slotted spoon to transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain while you fry the rest.
Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions and drain.
To serve, distribute the noodles between four bowls, ladle the broth on top, making sure everyone gets a good helping of the vegetables, then scatter with coriander, the crisp leeks, spring onions and a squeeze of lime.
