Friday, March 16, 2018

Recipes for fried party snacks for new year and beyond

Room for one more party, yes? Just one more slice of cake and one more glass of wine? New Year's Eve marks the line between one year and the next, of course, but for many of us it also marks the cut-off point between indulgence and abstinence. What better way to tread this fine line, then, than to have friends over and serve them some snack food rather than one big feast. This sort of food often makes for my favourite kind of get-togethers, anyway: hanging out while eating various nibbles over the course of an evening, rather than the ready, steady, go of a big sit-down number.

One or two or all three of today's snacks will indulge your guests far more than any little party canape, but at the same time they are all just about abstinent enough not to weigh everyone down, which is the last thing any of us needs right now. That's why I'll be treading this very line tomorrow night, to see out the old year and bring in the new.

Panelle
If you're going to make only one snack to serve with the drinks tomorrow night, these are the perfect make-ahead choice. They are made with chickpea flour and cooked like polenta, and you can prepare and chill the mixture today or tomorrow morning, then cut it into slices so the panelle are ready to cook when your guests get hungry and you get frying. I was introduced to these little fritters, a tasty street food snack from Palermo in Sicily, by my friend Ivo Bisignano. Traditionally, they're served hot, straight out of the oil, in a soft white bread roll with just a squeeze of lemon by way of accompaniment, but I like to snack on them just as they are before a meal; they're also lovely dipped in decent mayonnaise or aïoli. To me, panelle are the epitome of indulgence, rather than abstinence, in the New Year's Eve equation. Makes about 30 fritters, to serve four to five generously.

225g chickpea (aka gram) flour
½ tsp rosemary leaves, finely chopped
Flaked sea salt and black pepper
750ml water
500ml sunflower oil
1 lemon, halved

Sift the flour into a bowl, then stir in the chopped rosemary, a teaspoon and a half of salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper.

Pour the water into a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Take the pan off the heat, then add the flour in three or four stages, whisking continuously with each addition to stop too many lumps forming (though there's no escaping the fact that some will). Return the pan to a low heat and cook the mix for five minutes, stirring frequently with a spatula, until it starts to come away from the sides of the pan, then turn off the heat.

Cut out two 35cm-wide x 80cm-long sheets of greaseproof paper, lay one out on a worktop, then spoon the panelle mixture on top and spread it out into a roughly 20cm x 30cm rectangle that's about 1cm thick (again, use a spatula). Lay the second sheet of paper on top, then roll out with a rolling pin until the batter is 0.5cm thick and about twice its original surface area (don't worry if it loses its shape a bit).

Set aside for half an hour to cool and set properly, then lift off the top layer of paper and cut the panelle batter into long, 4cm-wide strips. Cut each strip into 10cm-long pieces (so you end up with 4cm x 10cm rectangles). Don't worry about trimming the edges: any frayed bits will go nice and crisp when fried.

Put the oil in a large saute pan on a high flame. Once the oil is good and hot (about 200C), carefully drop in four or five slices of panelle and fry for five to six minutes, turning them once halfway through, until golden brown and crisp. Lift out with a slotted spoon and transfer to a wire rack lined with kitchen paper, to drain. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and repeat with the remaining panelle mixture. Once all the panelle are fried, squeeze over some lemon juice and serve at once.
Chorizo, banana and prawn cakes with harissa yoghurt

These are what I'd sell if I ever jacked it all in and set up a street stall somewhere tropical. I'm probably not going to do that any time soon, but in the meantime, these will transport you there. Makes about 15 fritters, to serve four as a snack or first course.

3 cooking chorizo sausages, skin removed and discarded, meat finely chopped (150g net weight)
100g Greek-style yoghurt
1 tsp rose (or regular) harissa
2 ripe bananas (but not so ripe that they have brown bits), peeled and cut into 2cm pieces
80g sustainably caught ready-peeled raw king prawns, roughly chopped
1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 small garlic clove, peeled and crushed
2cm piece ginger, peeled and finely grated (to end up with about ½ tsp)
2 limes – zest finely grated, to get 2 tsp, then cut into wedges
¼ tsp ground coriander
10g coriander leaves, finely chopped
2 tbsp plain flour
Salt
2 large egg whites
3 tbsp vegetable oil

Put a large nonstick saute pan on a high flame. Once hot, fry the chorizo for four minutes, stirring regularly, until nice and crisp, then tip into a large bowl (including any oil that leeches out) and leave to cool a little.

In a small bowl, fold the harissa into the yoghurt – don't mix them together so much that they turn into a uniform mass, but rather just swirl the harissa through the yoghurt, so it ends up with attractive red marbling. Cover with cling-film and refrigerate.

Add the bananas, prawns, chilli, garlic, ginger, lime zest, ground and fresh coriander, flour and a quarter-teaspoon of salt to the chorizo and stir to combine. Whip the egg whites to soft peaks, then gently fold into the fritter mixture, taking care not to knock out too much air.

Saturday, February 17, 2018

Vegan recipe for shiitake pho with crispy leeks

There's a whole world of mushrooms out there and, much like wine, we can all probably name a handful of them. Unlike wine, however, there are no dedicated menus rhapsodising about their various flavours. This might be because of the dangers associated with fungi: pick and eat the wrong mushroom, and you're dead, we're taught as children. Sadly, this has done nothing to help varieties such as slippery jack, stinkhorn or shaggy ink cap on to our dinner tables.

We eat closed cup, chestnut and button in spades, with the odd “mixed wild” thrown in. Not that there's anything wrong with that: they're cheap; they're great mates with garlic and olive oil on toast; they make superb keema (“mince”) when blitzed into tiny bits and paired with walnuts, sweet onions and spices; and they make ravishing ragouts. And, when the season allows, the odd chunky-stemmed porcini or dainty chanterelle might put in an appearance at the local market, and can be eaten raw in salads or flash-fried and served on creamy polenta: when you start with the best mushrooms, life becomes simple.

But the diamond in the rough, in my eyes, is the shiitake. Originally from China, and now grown in the UK, it's sold both fresh and dried. These mushrooms unleash an almighty meaty, smoky richness, and add a welcome chewy texture to boot. This makes them a great segue into meat-free eating, and a good ingredient for seasoned vegans to have up their sleeve when they fancy something meaty (that's not meat).

Today's recipe features fresh shiitake in a pho, a big, bold Vietnamese soup packed with rice noodles and topped with a glorious broth. It's balanced, flavoursome, light and a great introduction to the extended mushroom family.

Shiitake pho with crispy leeks
You can top a pho with a galaxy of good things, from crisp fried onions to all manner of herbs (fresh mint and coriander, say), but I've gone for leeks. This recipe rewards the cook who chops everything in advance. Serves four.

4 tbsp rapeseed oil, plus extra for frying the leeks
4 banana shallots, thinly sliced
2 inches ginger, peeled and grated
1 star anise
3 cloves
1 cinnamon stick
2 leeks, 1 finely sliced, the other cut in half and then into long, thin strips
2 bird's- eye chillies, very finely chopped
375g fresh shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 tbsp soy sauce
6 spring onions, very finely sliced
2 litres vegan vegetable stock
200g flat rice noodles
1 big handful fresh coriander, shredded
1 lime, quartered

In a large pot (three litres or bigger), heat the oil on a medium flame, then fry the shallots for five minutes. Stir in the ginger, star anise, cloves and cinnamon, and fry for five minutes more, until the mix starts to blacken and turn sticky (this will add great flavour). Add the sliced leek, chillies and mushrooms, and stir-fry for eight to 10 minutes, until softened and cooked down, then add the soy sauce, half the spring onions and the stock. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat to a whisper and leave to simmer. Check for seasoning: it may well need salt.

Meanwhile, fry the shredded leek. Pour enough oil into a frying pan to come 1cm up the sides, then heat on a medium flame until very hot. Fry the leek in batches, until crisp and golden, then use a slotted spoon to transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain while you fry the rest.

Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions and drain.

To serve, distribute the noodles between four bowls, ladle the broth on top, making sure everyone gets a good helping of the vegetables, then scatter with coriander, the crisp leeks, spring onions and a squeeze of lime.

Friday, January 12, 2018

Recipes for light and easy post-Christmas relief

Half the challenge at this time of year is to plan what you're going to eat on Christmas Day and to stick to it, so the last thing you need from me is more ideas about what to cook. Sure, every year there are recipes that claim to be the ultimate and only way to cook a carrot, potato or turkey, but the menu you devised way before 2017's avalanche of Christmas advice even started will in all likelihood still be more delicious.

So, no festive recipes this week. Instead I offer meals to provide light and easy relief from the main event. These are dishes you may well be able to put together largely from what you've already got in the cupboard or fridge; though quick to make, they are confident enough to hold their own against the bird and all the rest. Not only that, but they are as good as light standalone meals as they are as support acts for the Christmas leftovers: pair the little gem and anchovy mayonnaise salad with cold roast turkey or chicken, for example, and you might just wish you'd put the two together for the main event itself. And if that gives you one more idea of what you could make on Monday, I'm (sort of, but not really) sorry. Happy Christmas!
Roast aubergine with curried yoghurt, caramelised onions and pomegranate

A breath of fresh air for tired, jaded tastebuds. Serves four, generously.

3 large (or 4 regular) aubergines
100ml groundnut oil
200g Greek-style yoghurt
2 tsp medium curry powder
¼ tsp ground turmeric
1 lime – finely grate the zest to get 1 tsp and juice to get 2 tsp
Salt and black pepper
1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced
30g flaked almonds
½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
½ tsp coriander seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
40g pomegranate seeds

Heat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7. Use a vegetable peeler to shave strips of skin off the aubergines from top to bottom, so they end up with alternating stripes of dark purple skin and clear white flesh. Cut the aubergines widthways into 2cm-thick rounds and put in a large bowl. Add 70ml oil, half a teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper, then spread out on a large oven tray lined with baking paper. Roast for 40-45 minutes, until dark golden brown, then remove and leave to cool.

In a small bowl, mix the yoghurt with a teaspoon of curry powder, the turmeric, lime juice, a generous pinch of salt and a good grind of pepper, then put it in the fridge until later.

Heat the remaining two tablespoons of oil in a large frying pan on a medium-high flame. Once hot, fry the onion for eight minutes, stirring frequently, until soft and dark golden brown. Add the remaining teaspoon of curry powder, the almonds and a pinch of salt, and fry for two minutes, until the almonds are lightly browned.

To serve, lay the aubergine slices on a platter, overlapping them slightly. Spoon the yoghurt sauce over the top, then scatter on the fried onion mix. Sprinkle over the cumin seeds, coriander seeds, pomegranate seeds and lime zest, and serve.
Gem lettuce with anchovy mayonnaise

This take on the caesar salad was inspired by a meal I had earlier this year at Olympia Provisions in Portland, Oregon. With some good crusty bread, it makes a lovely light lunch in its own right, but it's also fabulous alongside grilled tuna steak or leftover Christmas turkey. Serves four as a light main course or six as a side dish.

6 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and finely chopped
4 large eggs, plus one yolk extra
1 small garlic clove, peeled and crushed
¼ tsp dijon mustard
4 tsp lemon juice
75ml sunflower oil
450g little gem lettuce (ie, about 4 large heads), trimmed and quartered
2½ tbsp olive oil
5g tarragon leaves
Salt
50g pitted Kalamata olives, torn in half
¼ red onion, peeled and very thinly sliced (30g net weight)

Put half the anchovies in the small bowl of a food processor, add the egg yolk, garlic, mustard and two teaspoons of lemon juice, and blitz to a smooth paste. With the motor still running, very slowly add the sunflower oil in a thin stream, until the mixture emulsifies and comes together into a thick mayonnaise. Thin with a tablespoon or two of water and pulse until the mayonnaise is pourable. Stir in the remaining anchovies and set aside.

Half-fill a small saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to medium-high, gently lower in the eggs, boil for six minutes, then drain. Put the eggs under cold running water for a few minutes, to stop them cooking any more, then peel.

In a large bowl, mix the lettuce quarters with the olive oil, the remaining two teaspoons of lemon juice, half the tarragon and a quarter-teaspoon of salt. Arrange the lettuce cut side up on a large plate, then spoon the mayo on top. Sprinkle on first the remaining tarragon, then the olives and red onion slices. Tear open the eggs, put them on top of the lettuce, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and serve.

Monday, December 18, 2017

Readers on reducing children's sugary snacks

Public Health England has warned parents that children's snacking habits need to change, with many of them eating three unhealthy snacks and drinks every day. In an attempt to prevent children from developing poor health and becoming obese, parents have been advised to be more strict with their eating habits.

We asked you to share your tips on how you are trying to manage your children's snack intake. Here's what some Guardian readers said.

'Try not to offer kids sugar as a treat': Maria Karanika-Murray, 42, Nottingham
We have fruit, veg or cheese as an after school snack. It's a good time and opportunity to offer something healthy or introduce new foods to my son because he's hungry and distracted when walking back home with friends. Kids also learn to view sugar as a treat – we teach them that. I try not to offer sugar as a treat and expect that the grandparents will respect that. We might as well teach them to get excited with fruit!

Kids tend to eat only as much as they need to. I noticed early on that if my son is not hungry he will not ask for treats or may even refuse pudding. That's a good habit that we often unlearn as we grow up. Eating well and enough is more important than finishing your plate. Perhaps the question is not how to limit the snacks our kids eat but rather how to teach them to understand and like good food. That means variety, regularity, and good habits for the whole family.

'They get only one snack but they get to choose': Amber, Germany
We get the kids to pick their own snacks by reading the labels and being aware of e-numbers and glucose fructose syrup. Our rule is that they get one and that's it. They choose which one they want and have an agency of sorts. We all know exactly how successful prohibition is ...

'Don't take young children into supermarkets!': Madeleine Westall, 61, Isle of Man and Scotland
Don't take young children into supermarkets! Don't buy what you don't want them to eat and try and stick to your rules – no crisps means no crisps even at Christmas, and don't eat what you don't allow your kids to eat!

I would say that setting good examples when children are young will yield rewards in the long run, but be prepared for a dip in their teens when they eat all sorts of crap. I think we should bring back school health professionals to help parents of primary-school-age children, as well as get dental professionals into schools to give talks.

'The main rule is not having the same snack two days in a row': Neil Welsh, Hampshire
We keep a list of snacks that the kids can have on the fridge. They can have two snacks per day from the list as stepping stones between breakfast, lunch and dinner (but not within one hour of a meal). The main rule is that they are not allowed to have the same snack two days in a row which helps keep their snacks varied. Once a snack is gone it gets crossed off the list until it is replenished at the next shop.

'We try and have only one time of the day when sugary snacks are allowed': Gary M, 29, Yorkshire
Outside of special occasions (like birthday parties etc.) we typically have one time of day where sugary snacks are allowed: immediately after dinner. After doing this for years now, our little one doesn't seem to ask for extra sugary snacks or drinks outside of this time, and because it's so tightly integrated into our schedule she rarely gets upset when she's told that she needs to wait until after dinner if she does ask (often when in a supermarket or shop where these treats are on display).

Try and stick to a schedule. We're all creatures of habit and like any routine it'll take time to adjust to. But once you're there, you'll be surprised how quickly your little one starts to keep you in check! Lastly, you should try to demonstrate the behaviours you want to see in your children. It's no use telling them they can't have a packet of crisps or some chocolate, if you yourself are indulging.

Monday, November 20, 2017

For The City That Never Sleeps

It is the city of dreams, it is also the city that never sleeps. Mumbai and its vivid night life has caught the fancy of many night owls. The ever-lit skyline, the lilting streets and the roaring sea, Mumbai is a sight in itself, especially during the night. Going strong till the wee hours of the night, Mumbai gets its fuel from the multiple food joints that feed the crowd at every hour and every corner of the city. Be it the midnight hunger pangs, or just late night cravings, these 7 midnight snacking joints in Mumbai come to your rescue through the night!

1. Amar Juice Centre, Vile Parle

Open till 2-3 a.m. in the morning, Amar Juice Centre has carved its own niche in the city for its lip-smacking pav bhaji, masala pav and tawa pulav. Its frothy and heavy milkshakes, sandwiches and the South Indian delicacies like the Vada and Neer Dosa are also worth every bit of your penny.

2. Zaffran

Craving for some Murg Shorba, Raan, and Gosht Seekh Kabab in the middle of the night? While some would go back to bed curbing their cravings for the following day, those near CST, Malad and Andheri flock Zaffran, a renowned restaurant for its authentic Mughal fare. Open till 4 a.m. in the morning, Zaffran is the perfect outing for those who are willing to sit and indulge in a good round of meal packed with an extensive variety of meat and vegetarian Mughal specialties. Zaffran also has some of best prawns and fish preparations in its menu.

3.Bademiya

The Colaba eatery is a hot favourite across school students, youngsters and corporate professionals. Famous for its sumptuous and filling rolls, baida rotis, tikkas and kebabs,the eatery also offers seafood starters like Fish Tikka, Prawn Tikka and Pomfret Tandoori. You must try their Paneer Bhurji Roll, Bhuna Chicken and Chicken Reshmi Tikka. Bademiya is open till 4 a.m. in the morning.

4.Haji Ali Juice Centre

Looking for something light? Haji Ali Juice Centre is the place for you. Offering an extensive range of desserts and light bites like Kesar Pista Ice Cream, Casatta, Kaju Milkshake, Pineapple and Grape Juice, Haji Ali Centre gives you more than one reason to come back to the modest eatery.

5. Ice n Rolls


Another favourite youth haunt, Ice n Rolls' amazing selection of sandwiches, pizza, rolls and shakes has made it a favourite amongst youngsters who don't think twice to throng this place with a not so heavy purse. Open till 1:30 a.m, must-tries include Kit Kat Shake, Penne Arrabiata, Cheese Grill Sandwich, Paneer Schezwan Roll, Brownie, and Mushroom Tikka Roll is a must try at Ice n Rolls.

6.Sigdi

Be it Mughlai, Chinese or an indulgent feast of North Indian delicacy, Sigdi has it all to appease those growling hunger pangs at 3 a.m. Known for its range of rolls - Paneer Tikka Roll, Chicken Tikka Roll, Prawn Roll or Mutton Bhuna Roll, Sigdi is bound to impress. Don't miss out on their heavenly delights such as Butter Chicken, Paneer Schezwan, Rumali Roti,Reshmi Tikka Roll, Chicken Lollipop, among others.

7. Bachelorr

Enjoying the view at Marine Drive with good company, what more could you wish for? How about some sitaphal ice cream or litchi watermelon fusion ice cream or a Litch jamun exotica, or a heavenly Kiwi plum fusion juice? Bachelorr is for those hunting for something new and exciting, and the good news is its open till 1:30 a.m. This is the perfect place to satisfy late night sweet cravings.